2004 was a very difficult year for me. In March of that year, my father passed away. I was the one who had to take him off of oxygen and watch him die. Less than a month later my 21 year old nephew also passed away from suicide. I was executor of my family's estate, had never done that before, and the complications from that were mind-boggling. I was also putting in 60-70 hour work weeks, and recently evicted a friend of mine because of his drinking.My father's bills were piled high with no idea how i was gonna get them paid, and there was so much legal stuff that i didn't know. I had no idea how i was gonna keep all of this together, and i was wearing down pretty fast. The stress from all of this was giving me insomnia, which in turn made me even more tired and run down.
One night i let it all get to me. I sat on the couch with my legs crossed and my face buried in my hands. I tried to fight back the tears, but the moment i let the first one out the rest just came in a flood. Soon i was sobbing uncontrollably, afraid that i really was going to fall apart. What if i fell apart? Would i then be able to compose myself and get on with things, or would i just sit there and fall to pieces? I felt very alone, very sad, and at my limit.
As those thoughts, and about a million others, flooded my mind, i felt these little whiskers brush up against my right arm. It was Zara, my black kitty. I stayed blocked off, not even wanting my cat to see me cry. She would have none of it. She pushed my right arm to the side just enough so that she could get onto my lap. Slowly she sat down, found a comfy spot, and looked up at me with these slow blinking loving eyes. Then she gave me a very soft but deliberate "reower" and just kept my eyes focused on her. She just sat there purring and looking up at me and talking to me. It was as if to say "Papa, i'm here, no matter what happens i love you and you can always count on me to love you and make it better".
Well... the sobbing stopped and i started to laugh a little bit. Zara is affectionate, but never forces herself on me. She's always near by, but never has she done that in the past, nor has she ever done that since. But it seemed she understood what i really needed at that moment, and she fought me to get to me to comfort me. From that point on, my stresses seemed a little easier. It was one of those moments that are so complex, and yet so simple, that has resonated in my mind and heart since then.
The power of love from a pet...
Perhaps your friend is waiting for you. Would you please find a shelter and help save a life? They just might save yours as well. If you can't adopt a cat, perhaps a donation so that others may find their bestest friend and change two lives? Sometimes the greatest gifts are life and love.
Thank you...
Paul Zimmerman
"I may not be able to save them all, but I will save all that I can, one by one."
Showing posts with label bringing home a new cat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bringing home a new cat. Show all posts
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Introducing Your Cat to a New Cat
Click HERE for more information on how toadopt Byron and his friends at Blistered Whiskers.
Are you thinking of getting another cat but unsure of how to introduce your cat to the new cat? Read this article from ASPCA on how to do just that.
Free-ranging and feral cats lead complex and busy lives. They maintain far larger territories than most people realize, and these territories often contain a variety of environments, such as forests, farmlands, urban gardens and yards. Within these territories, cats explore, hunt and scavenge for food alone. They only occasionally interact with other cats. They don’t live in groups or even pairs, and they don’t seek out contact with other cats. In fact, they actively avoid it. Considering this natural behavior of cats, it isn’t surprising that it can be very difficult to introduce a new cat into an established cat’s territory, even when that territory is your home.
If you’re bringing a new cat into your home, be patient. The introduction must be gradual. Following the initial introduction, it can take a very long time for a relationship to grow. It takes most cats 8 to 12 months to develop a friendship with a new cat. Although some cats certainly become close friends, others never do. Many cats who don’t become buddies learn to avoid each other, but some cats fight when introduced and continue to do so until one of the cats must be rehomed.
If your resident cat becomes aggressive when she sees other cats outside your home, you’ll probably have a difficult time introducing a new cat into your household. If your cat has lived harmoniously with other cats in the past, the odds are good that she’ll adjust to a newcomer. However, it’s impossible to predict whether or not any two individual cats will get along.
Unfortunately, there are no reliable guides for deciding the best matches among cats. Some cats are very social and enjoy living with other cats, while others prefer solitary lives. The individual personalities of the cats are more important than any other factor, such as sex, age or size. Be aware that the more cats you have, the higher the likelihood that there will be conflicts among them.
How to Manage Introductions
Step 1: Controlling First Impressions
The first impression a new cat makes when she meets your resident cat is critical. If two cats display aggression during their first meeting, this may set the mood for their future relationship. For this reason, it’s best to separate your resident cat from your new cat when you first bring her home so that you can control their initial meeting.
-The two cats should be able to smell and hear—but not see or touch—each other.
-Each cat should have her own food and water bowl, litter box, scratching post, bed, etc.
-Feed the cats near the door that separates them so they learn that coming together (even though they can’t see each other) results in a pleasant experience.
-In addition to regular cat food, feed the cats extra-special treats near the door as well, like tiny pieces of tuna, salmon, cheese, chicken or liver.
-After two to three days, switch the cats’ locations so they can investigate each other’s smell. This also allows the new cat to explore a different section of your home.
-Some behaviorists suggest rubbing the cats separately with the same towel to intermix their scents. First gently rub one cat with the towel. Then rub the other cat. After the towel carries both cats’ scents, bring the towel back to the first cat and rub her with it again.
-After a few more days, play with each of the cats near the door. Encourage them to paw at toys under the door. Eventually the cats may play “paws” under the door with each other.
Step 2: Letting the Cats See Each Other
After a week or so, assuming that you see no signs of aggression at the door (no hissing, growling, etc.), you can introduce the cats to each other. One method is to replace the door with a temporary screen door so that the cats can see each other. If you can’t use a screen door, you can try using two baby gates positioned in the door jam, one above the other. Ask a friend or family member to help you with the introduction. Have one cat and one person on each side of the door, and start the introduction by setting each cat down a few feet away from the screen or gates. When the cats notice each other, say their names and toss treats to them, aiming the treats behind them. Over the next few days, continue to encourage feeding, eating treats and playing near the barrier, gradually offering the cats’ meals, treats and toys closer to the screen.
Step 3: Letting the Cats Spend Time Together
The next stage is to permit the cats to spend time together without a barrier between them. Supervise these initial face-to-face interactions carefully.
-It‘s good to bring the cats together when they are likely to be relatively calm, such as after a meal or strenuous play.
-Keep a squirt bottle handy in case the cats begin to fight.
-As the cats become more familiar with each other, allow them longer and longer periods of time together.
-If one cat spends most of her time hiding, or if one cat continuously harasses and pursues the other, please read our article, Finding Professional Help, for information about locating a qualified expert, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB).
Final Tips
If you’re bringing a new cat into a household with multiple cats, introduce each resident cat to the newcomer individually. After each of your cats has met the new cat one-on-one, you can start to allow all of the cats to mingle as a group.
Your cats will be more likely to get along if they’re happy in their environment. Look at the layout of your home. Make sure there are plenty of hiding spots for your cats. Some like to sit up high, on shelves and on kitty condo perches. Frightened cats, on the other hand, tend to hide under and behind things, so make sure you provide spots at floor level as well. Place food, water and litter boxes out in the open so your cats don’t feel trapped when they access these resources. Make sure you have a litter box for each cat, plus at least one extra.
Free-ranging and feral cats lead complex and busy lives. They maintain far larger territories than most people realize, and these territories often contain a variety of environments, such as forests, farmlands, urban gardens and yards. Within these territories, cats explore, hunt and scavenge for food alone. They only occasionally interact with other cats. They don’t live in groups or even pairs, and they don’t seek out contact with other cats. In fact, they actively avoid it. Considering this natural behavior of cats, it isn’t surprising that it can be very difficult to introduce a new cat into an established cat’s territory, even when that territory is your home.
If you’re bringing a new cat into your home, be patient. The introduction must be gradual. Following the initial introduction, it can take a very long time for a relationship to grow. It takes most cats 8 to 12 months to develop a friendship with a new cat. Although some cats certainly become close friends, others never do. Many cats who don’t become buddies learn to avoid each other, but some cats fight when introduced and continue to do so until one of the cats must be rehomed.
If your resident cat becomes aggressive when she sees other cats outside your home, you’ll probably have a difficult time introducing a new cat into your household. If your cat has lived harmoniously with other cats in the past, the odds are good that she’ll adjust to a newcomer. However, it’s impossible to predict whether or not any two individual cats will get along.
Unfortunately, there are no reliable guides for deciding the best matches among cats. Some cats are very social and enjoy living with other cats, while others prefer solitary lives. The individual personalities of the cats are more important than any other factor, such as sex, age or size. Be aware that the more cats you have, the higher the likelihood that there will be conflicts among them.
How to Manage Introductions
Step 1: Controlling First Impressions
The first impression a new cat makes when she meets your resident cat is critical. If two cats display aggression during their first meeting, this may set the mood for their future relationship. For this reason, it’s best to separate your resident cat from your new cat when you first bring her home so that you can control their initial meeting.
-The two cats should be able to smell and hear—but not see or touch—each other.
-Each cat should have her own food and water bowl, litter box, scratching post, bed, etc.
-Feed the cats near the door that separates them so they learn that coming together (even though they can’t see each other) results in a pleasant experience.
-In addition to regular cat food, feed the cats extra-special treats near the door as well, like tiny pieces of tuna, salmon, cheese, chicken or liver.
-After two to three days, switch the cats’ locations so they can investigate each other’s smell. This also allows the new cat to explore a different section of your home.
-Some behaviorists suggest rubbing the cats separately with the same towel to intermix their scents. First gently rub one cat with the towel. Then rub the other cat. After the towel carries both cats’ scents, bring the towel back to the first cat and rub her with it again.
-After a few more days, play with each of the cats near the door. Encourage them to paw at toys under the door. Eventually the cats may play “paws” under the door with each other.
Step 2: Letting the Cats See Each Other
After a week or so, assuming that you see no signs of aggression at the door (no hissing, growling, etc.), you can introduce the cats to each other. One method is to replace the door with a temporary screen door so that the cats can see each other. If you can’t use a screen door, you can try using two baby gates positioned in the door jam, one above the other. Ask a friend or family member to help you with the introduction. Have one cat and one person on each side of the door, and start the introduction by setting each cat down a few feet away from the screen or gates. When the cats notice each other, say their names and toss treats to them, aiming the treats behind them. Over the next few days, continue to encourage feeding, eating treats and playing near the barrier, gradually offering the cats’ meals, treats and toys closer to the screen.
Step 3: Letting the Cats Spend Time Together
The next stage is to permit the cats to spend time together without a barrier between them. Supervise these initial face-to-face interactions carefully.
-It‘s good to bring the cats together when they are likely to be relatively calm, such as after a meal or strenuous play.
-Keep a squirt bottle handy in case the cats begin to fight.
-As the cats become more familiar with each other, allow them longer and longer periods of time together.
-If one cat spends most of her time hiding, or if one cat continuously harasses and pursues the other, please read our article, Finding Professional Help, for information about locating a qualified expert, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB).
Final Tips
If you’re bringing a new cat into a household with multiple cats, introduce each resident cat to the newcomer individually. After each of your cats has met the new cat one-on-one, you can start to allow all of the cats to mingle as a group.
Your cats will be more likely to get along if they’re happy in their environment. Look at the layout of your home. Make sure there are plenty of hiding spots for your cats. Some like to sit up high, on shelves and on kitty condo perches. Frightened cats, on the other hand, tend to hide under and behind things, so make sure you provide spots at floor level as well. Place food, water and litter boxes out in the open so your cats don’t feel trapped when they access these resources. Make sure you have a litter box for each cat, plus at least one extra.
Friday, July 3, 2009
Meet Emmy Lou
Hi, my name is Emmy Lou and I'm a very playful female kitty. I'm also outgoing and I love all of the attention that I get from the volunteers at Blistered Whiskers shelter. I really hope to go live with a nice family of my own very soon. After all, how can you resist my adorable little face?
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Bringing Home A New Cat
Korky just found his adoptive home but click HERE for more information on how to his friends at Blistered Whiskers.
Whether your new cat is coming from a shelter, a home, an urban street or a country barn, the first twenty-four hours in your home are special and critical. Before you bring a new cat into your life, it helps to understand a little bit about how cats relate to their world.
For the cat, territory is of paramount importance. A cat views his territory the way most of us view our clothes; without them, we feel naked and vulnerable. Place us naked in a room filled with strangers and most of us would try to hide! It is common for cats, regardless of whether they come from homes or streets, to hide in a new territory. Very sensitive or under-socialized cats often hide for a week or more! You know that this cat is now a member of the family, but the cat doesn't.
You can help make the transition to a new home smoother and easier by providing some privacy for your new cat. If possible, start by preparing your home before you bring in the cat. Choose a room for the litter box; a bathroom works well. Set up the litter box with one to two inches of litter, and place it in a corner, if possible.
Now create a safe haven for the cat to hide in. You can buy a covered cat bed but a cardboard box turned upside down with two "doors" cut in it will work nicely. Why two "doors?" Many cats seem to feel more secure if they have a second "escape" route. Get a box big enough for the cat to stand up, turn around, stretch out and lie down in -- but keep it cozy! Place the box next to the wall or in a corner where the cat can see the door to the room. You don't want the cat to feel trapped. Place a sisal, cork or corrugated cardboard scratching post next to it. Finally, clear off a shelf for the cat to perch on to view his new world.
After you have prepared the bathroom, cat-proof every other room of your home. Are there raised surfaces for the cat? If the answer is "no," make some! Cats need to be able to jump up and survey their territory. Do you have valuable mementos that are easily broken? Put them away until your cat is happily moved in. Check out all the nooks and crannies. Are there places that could be dangerous for the cat to explore or hide in? If so, block them off. Finally, put a scratching post or pad in every room.
If circumstances require that you bring in the cat before your home is ready, keep him in his carrier until you have his room set up! He will be fine in there for a while longer. Opposite the litter box, place a bowl of fresh water. After the room is set up, place the carrier next to the "safe haven." Close the bathroom door before opening the carrier. Do not pull the cat out. Allow him to come out on his own and begin to explore his new home. Now, leave the room. Yes, leave...remember you are giving him time to acclimate. Go and prepare a small amount of a premium quality cat food. Quietly place it next to the water bowl.
Do not reach for the cat! Let the cat come to you. If he doesn't approach, come back in fifteen minutes. Do not be surprised if he doesn't eat. It is common for re-homed cats to show no interest in eating, often for several days. Pick up the leftovers and leave. Come back in a couple of hours with a fresh meal of the same high-quality food. If the cat is openly soliciting affection, eating and not hiding, you can open the door and give him one more room. Do this slowly until you have introduced the cat to all the rooms in his new home.
Remember to let the cat set the pace. Be patient. It may take weeks for the cat to comprehend that this foreign turf is his new territory.
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